Build your zero-based budget
Step 1: Enter your monthly income. Step 2: Add categories and planned amounts. Step 3: Make “Remaining” equal $0. (Savings, investing, and debt payoff count as categories too.)
Plan a zero-based budget so every dollar has a job. Enter your income, add budget categories, and balance your plan to exactly $0 remaining.
Step 1: Enter your monthly income. Step 2: Add categories and planned amounts. Step 3: Make “Remaining” equal $0. (Savings, investing, and debt payoff count as categories too.)
A zero-based budget is a budgeting method where you assign every dollar of your income to a purpose before the month begins. “Zero” doesn’t mean you spend everything — it means your unallocated money is zero. You decide where the money goes: bills, groceries, sinking funds, debt payoff, investing, and even fun. The goal is simple:
At its core, a zero-based budget uses one equation:
Where Total Allocations include all planned categories: housing, utilities, food, transportation, subscriptions, insurance, debt payments, sinking funds (planned future expenses), savings, investments, and discretionary spending.
This calculator is built to feel like a quick “budget control panel”:
If your remaining dollars are not zero, use the suggestions to adjust: add more to savings/debt/investing if you’re positive, or cut/adjust categories if you’re negative.
Let’s say your monthly take-home income is $4,800. You plan these allocations:
Total allocations = $4,500. Remaining = $4,800 − $4,500 = $300. In a zero-based budget, that $300 needs a job. You might allocate it to:
Once you assign that $300, the remaining becomes $0 — and your budget is “zeroed out.”
A common reason budgets “fail” is that people only budget for monthly bills. Zero-based budgeting gets powerful when you capture true expenses — costs that hit occasionally but are guaranteed to happen eventually. The trick is to convert them into a monthly amount so you’re ready when the bill arrives.
Example: your car insurance is $900 every 6 months. Monthly sinking fund = $900 ÷ 6 = $150. If you budget $150 each month, the bill becomes boring — and boring is the goal.
If you’re paying off credit cards, student loans, or personal loans, zero-based budgeting gives you a clean framework: you always include the minimum payments as “must-pay” categories, then add a separate line for extra payoff that uses any remaining dollars. This keeps your plan realistic while still accelerating progress.
If you have multiple debts, you can combine zero-based budgeting with a payoff strategy: snowball (smallest balance first) or avalanche (highest interest first). Either way, the extra payoff line is the lever you pull to speed up the timeline.
Budgets usually feel private, but the process is shareable. Use this tool to create a screenshot-friendly plan and share:
When budgeting becomes a game, consistency goes up — and consistency is where real results come from.
No. It means you assign every dollar to a purpose. “Savings” and “investing” are categories too.
For most people, net (take-home) income works best because it reflects the money you can actually spend. If you use gross income, include taxes and payroll deductions as budget categories.
Use your lowest predictable monthly income as the baseline, and treat extra income as a separate allocation: emergency fund, sinking funds, or debt payoff. You can also use an irregular income budget tool.
Start with 10–15 categories. Too many categories creates friction. You can always split categories later (e.g., groceries vs dining out) once you’re consistent.
Put them directly in the budget as monthly allocations. For example, “Emergency fund: $250” and “Vacation sinking fund: $100.” The key is consistency.
Ideally: once at the start of the month, then weekly check-ins (or per paycheck). The more frequently you review, the less stressful budgeting feels.
Educational only — not financial advice. Always double-check numbers and consider talking to a qualified professional for big decisions.
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